Some trips are planned months in advance, while others fall into place almost effortlessly. Our road trip to Coonoor and Wellington was somewhere in between—planned, but with a few meaningful coincidences along the way. We began our journey on 15 January, which also happens to be Army Day, making the trip even more special since we were travelling to meet a close friend serving in the Indian Army and stationed in Wellington.
Summary
A road trip from Bengaluru to Coonoor and Wellington offers a calm, less touristy Nilgiris experience. From army heritage and scenic treks to toy train rides, forest drives, and authentic Tamil Nadu food, this journey stands out as a relaxed alternative to crowded Ooty, ideal for slow and meaningful travel.
बेंगलुरु से कून्नूर और वेलिंगटन की यह रोड ट्रिप ऊटी की भीड़ से दूर एक शांत अनुभव देती है। सेना की विरासत, सुंदर ट्रेक, टॉय ट्रेन यात्रा, जंगल मार्ग और पारंपरिक तमिल भोजन इस यात्रा को खास बनाते हैं। यह सफर सुकून और धीमी यात्रा पसंद करने वालों के लिए आदर्श है।
Introduction: A Serene Nilgiris Road Trip Beyond Ooty
Starting early from Bengaluru, this trip turned out to be a refreshing contrast to our earlier visit to Ooty a couple of years ago. Less crowded, calmer, and deeply relaxing, Coonoor and Wellington offered a slower pace of travel, cleaner air, scenic landscapes, and an understated charm that often gets overshadowed by more popular hill stations. Over four days, the journey unfolded as a mix of temple visits, forest drives, army heritage, trekking, food discoveries, and simple conversations—exactly the kind of travel that stays with you long after you return.
Day 1: Bengaluru to Wellington Road Trip via Nanjangud
We started from Bengaluru at 6:00 AM, aiming to make the most of the day and avoid city traffic. The drive along Mysuru Road was smooth and familiar, and by mid-morning we reached Nanjangud, often referred to as the Kashi of the South due to its religious significance.
Since this period coincided with Dhanurmas, marking the transition towards Uttarayan, the town was particularly crowded. Many pilgrims returning from Sabarimala had gathered here, leading to long queues and congestion. Given the crowd, we decided to skip the main temple visit this time and instead explored nearby temples in the vicinity. One was a serene Vishnu temple, and the other a beautifully designed Kerala-style Ganesh temple. Both offered a quieter, more reflective experience and set a calm tone for the rest of the journey.
Read: Mandirs of Nanjungud, a blog post that chronicles our experience in the “Kashi of the South” in detail.
Sanathana Ganapati Mandir near Nanjungudu
Drive through Bandipur and Mudumalai
Alongside the beauty, there were also subtle reminders of strain. In certain stretches, scattered garbage along the roadside stood in contrast to the otherwise pristine landscape. Interestingly, areas under tighter regulation or limited access—particularly around army-controlled zones—appeared noticeably cleaner and quieter.
It reinforced an uncomfortable truth: unrestricted access, even when well-intentioned, often comes at an ecological cost. The Nilgiris are resilient, but not infinite. Travel here increasingly demands awareness—not in the form of restrictions alone, but through collective responsibility. These hills do not ask for admiration; they ask for restraint.
In Bandipur, we spotted small groups of deer on multiple occasions. Mudumalai, however, did not offer any wildlife sightings close to the road. Interestingly, there were no entry fees charged while passing through Mudumalai, whereas Karnataka required a forest entry fee on its side.
Arrival in the Nilgiris
By afternoon, we began our ascent towards Wellington. The drive into the Nilgiris is always special, but this route felt particularly scenic—winding roads, lush greenery, and a noticeable drop in temperature. Wellington immediately felt different from Ooty. Less commercial, less noisy, and far more relaxed.
The evening was spent catching up with our friend, followed by dinner at the Wellington Gymkhana Club. The club, with its old British-era architecture and understated elegance, offered a fitting end to the first day—good food, good conversation, and a sense of timelessness.
Images from Day 1
Staying with a friend posted in Wellington offered a perspective that typical travel does not. Beyond access to certain places and timings, it was the rhythm of life in an army cantonment that stood out—orderly, restrained, and deeply respectful of the surroundings.
Why Wellington Feels Different from Ooty
Having visited Ooty earlier, the contrast was immediately apparent. While Ooty has its charm, it has also become extremely tourist-heavy. Wellington, on the other hand, feels more grounded and restrained, largely due to its status as an army cantonment.
The pace is slower, the roads quieter, and the environment noticeably cleaner. There is less visual clutter—fewer shops competing for attention, fewer crowds, and a general sense of order. For travellers looking to unwind rather than tick off attractions, Wellington offers a far more restorative experience.
Day 2: Coonoor to Ooty Toy Train and Pykara Lake Itinerary
Breakfast at Ramachandra Café, Coonoor
Day two began with an early breakfast at Ramachandra Café, located close to the Coonoor Railway Station. This place comes highly recommended, and rightly so. Their breakfast platter, mini meal, dosas, and idlis were excellent.
What stood out was how familiar dishes—idli, dosa, and sambar—tasted distinctly different in Tamil Nadu. The flavours were sharper, lighter, and more balanced. It is a reminder that regional nuances matter, and food alone can justify traveling across states.
Toy Train from Coonoor to Ooty
After breakfast, we parked our car in Coonoor and boarded the Nilgiri Mountain Railway toy train to Ooty. This heritage train ride is less about speed and more about soaking in the scenery—dense forests, tunnels, bridges, and expansive valley views.
We had pre-arranged for our car to be transported separately to Ooty, which allowed us to enjoy the train journey without logistical worries. It is a slower but rewarding way to experience the Nilgiris.
Visit to Pykara Lake
From Ooty, we drove to Pykara Lake, a serene and picturesque spot surrounded by rolling hills and eucalyptus trees. The calm waters and open landscape were reminiscent of the lakes we had seen in Zurich and Geneva during a past trip to Switzerland.
We opted for a short boat ride, which added to the overall experience, though we did not stay back for long. Pykara felt peaceful and unhurried—one of those places where silence becomes part of the attraction.
Lunch was at Colonel’s Kitchen, known for its army-themed ambience and reliable food. The meal was satisfying, and the setting complemented the overall tone of the trip.
The rest of the day was intentionally kept light. We returned to our base, relaxed, and spent the evening over chai and conversation, followed by a simple home-cooked dinner.
Images from Day 2 of our visit – Foggy Morning, Train Ride, Pykara Lake
Day 3: Trekking in Wellington and Madras Regiment Heritage
Day three was the most physically demanding—and also the most rewarding.January weather hovered in the low teens at night and was comfortably cool during the day, ideal for trekking and long drives.
Early Morning Trek near Wellington
We started our trek at 6:00 AM, heading towards a nearby peak. The trek took about two hours uphill, followed by 1 to 1.5 hours on the descent, making it a roughly 10 km round trip. The view from the top was breathtaking. From the peak, one could see the entire Wellington and Coonoor valley spread out below. The air was exceptionally clean, and the quiet of the early morning added to the sense of achievement.
We returned by around 9:30 AM, tired but energised. Ooty weather in winter was actually a welcome change for us.
Madras Regiment Centre and Museum
Later in the morning, we visited the Madras Regiment Centre (MRC) Museum, an educational and moving experience. The museum is spread across two floors.
- The ground floor covers the history of the regiment from the early 1700s through the pre-independence period.
- The first floor focuses on post-independence contributions, including various wars, missions, and peacekeeping operations.
Walking through the exhibits provided a deeper understanding of the regiment’s legacy and the sacrifices made over centuries. It added context and meaning to being in an army town on Army Day week. Lunch was at the Officers’ Mess, where we enjoyed a well-prepared and relaxed meal.
Madras Regiment Center, Officers’ Mess in Wellington
Toda Temple Visit
In the afternoon, we visited a Toda temple. The Todas are one of the indigenous tribes of the Nilgiris, and only a handful of their temples remain today. The road leading to the temple was steep, but the visit was worthwhile. It offered a glimpse into a culture that has existed in harmony with the landscape long before modern tourism arrived.
Evening at Wellington Lake and Viewpoints
The evening was spent at Wellington Lake, followed by a nearby viewpoint offering panoramic views of the valley and the dam. As daylight faded, the scenery took on a softer, almost meditative quality. This was one of those moments where there was nothing specific to do—no checklist, no urgency—just the pleasure of being present.
Images from Day 3 – Trek, Toda Temple, Madras Regiment Center, Wellington Lake
Shopping in Coonoor and Dinner
Before calling it a day, we picked up some local items—spices, chocolate fudge, dark chocolate varieties, and essential oils. Coonoor and Wellington have several small stores selling these products, and they make for good souvenirs. Dinner was at a restaurant called Cherryberry, where the food was excellent. After an early dinner, fatigue finally caught up with us, and we turned in early.
Encounter with a Porcupine
Wildlife sightings during our trip were sparse but memorable—deer in Bandipur, bisons in Wellington… but the highlight was an unexpected sighting of a porcupine. While returning from dinner, we encountered a porcupine who was busy walking along the edge of the road, the spikes displayed in full glory. Below is a short video captured from the dashcam of my friend’s Jeep.
Nilgiris Road Trip Tips: FastTag, E-pass, Food, and Traffic
FastTag Annual Pass
This trip was our first real test of the FastTag annual pass, and it performed exactly as intended. Not having to constantly monitor balance or worry about toll deductions made the drive noticeably smoother.
We had quite the opposite experience while heading towards Ooty, where we had to pay a ₹30 e-pass fee. Due to a system outage, digital payments were unavailable, and cash was collected instead—a process that felt inefficient and inconvenient for non-locals. Additionally, the shorter return route is restricted to locals or pass holders, making the Gudalur detour unavoidable for others.
Food Experiences
What stood out yet again on this trip was how distinctly different food tastes once you cross into Tamil Nadu. These are familiar dishes—idli, dosa, sambar, chutney—but the differences are not subtle. The dosas here are thinner and crisper, the chutneys sharper and more assertive, and the sambar lighter, more tamarind-forward, without the mild sweetness one often associates with Karnataka-style preparations.
Living in Bengaluru, it is easy to take South Indian food for granted, assuming uniformity across states. Travel quickly corrects that assumption. We had first noticed this clearly during our Kumbakonam trip in October 2024, where food felt deeply rooted in local rhythm and tradition. This journey only reinforced that appreciation. Each meal—whether a simple breakfast at Ramachandra Café or a roadside lunch in Gudalur—became a reminder that even within South India, culinary identity shifts every few hundred kilometres.
Tourist Traffic
One recurring observation—this time as well as during our earlier Ooty trip in April 2024—was the sheer volume of vehicles from Kerala. Long convoys of buses, smaller tourist vehicles, and family cars moved steadily through narrow hill roads, especially over the weekend. It was striking enough for us to joke that a significant part of Ooty’s economy probably runs on Kerala tourism.
This is not a complaint, merely an observation. Hill roads were never designed for such sustained traffic density, and weekends naturally amplify the pressure. Seeing the same pattern across two trips, in different seasons, suggests this is no longer occasional but structural. It highlights how interconnected regional tourism has become—and how infrastructure and planning will need to evolve to keep pace.
You will see tea gardens everywhere in Ooty (Udhagamandalam) area
Driving the Nilgiri Hairpin Bends in an Automatic Car
The Masinagudi and Kalhatty ghats are famous for their hairpin bends. If you are driving an automatic car, switching to Manual (M) mode on steep inclines helps with engine braking and better control. Maintaining a larger gap from the car ahead is essential, as vehicles can stall or roll back on sharp inclines.
I used Manual Mode for the steepest curves to maintain better engine braking and control. It’s a lifesaver, especially when things go wrong. At one particularly sharp incline, the car ahead of me stalled and actually started rolling backward toward us!I had to react instantly to avoid a collision.
Return Journey: Wellington to Bengaluru
On 18 January, we started our return journey after a relaxed breakfast at home. The return drive took about eight hours, partly due to a mandatory detour. Non-local vehicles are required to take the longer route via Gudalur, which adds roughly an hour to the journey. It is important for travellers to factor this into their planning. We stopped at Gudalur for lunch—once again enjoying thin, crispy dosas that reinforced how consistently good food is across Tamil Nadu.
The drive took around six and a half hours to reach the outskirts of Bengaluru, followed by another one and a half hours for the final 30 kilometres. Sunday evening traffic was heavy but manageable, and we reached home by 6:00 PM.
Coonoor and Wellington vs Ooty: Final Verdict
If your goal is sightseeing at scale, shopping, and tourist attractions, Ooty still fits the bill. However, if you are looking for clean air, quieter surroundings, meaningful experiences, and a chance to slow down, Coonoor and Wellington are far better choices. This region is ideal for travelers who value conversations over crowds, walks over queues, and atmosphere over attractions.
A Note of gratitude
Visits to places like Pykara Lake or the Wellington Gymkhana Club felt less like privileges and more like quiet reminders of how discipline and stewardship shape spaces. It also added meaning to our visit to the Madras Regiment Centre and Museum. Being there during Army Day week made the experience especially reflective, grounding the trip in gratitude rather than novelty.
Conclusion
This road trip to Coonoor and Wellington was deeply refreshing. From forest drives and temple visits to army heritage and peaceful evenings, it offered the kind of balance that modern travel often lacks. Less touristy and far more grounding than Ooty, it is a destination worth considering for anyone seeking a calm, thoughtful escape into the Nilgiris.
The Tea Tree
While we were trekking in the hills on Saturday, our penultimate day, I encountered a discarded tea tree along the roadside. Below poem arose literally from a spur of the moment creativity during our morning trek on Saturday.
– Amar Vyas
The Tea Tree
I used to be a tea tree,
standing in my prime,
counting out my seasons—
and the passage of time with glee.
The leaves that they plucked
refreshed a tired soul,
sometimes for a price,
For those unfortunate, maybe even for free.
Seasons came, as years went by,
I stayed as I could be,
rooted firmly in the soil,
with my brothers free.
They took my oil,
clipped a branch,
Still I stood,
giving all I’d got.
Cold arrived,
rains fell too long.
The the blight, and age filled
the planters’ eyes with doubt.
When I was foliage no more,
set aside, put away,
They me left by the road.
A once revered tea tree.
FAQs: Bengaluru to Ooty Road Trip
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- Is Coonoor better than Ooty?Coonoor is quieter and less commercial than Ooty, making it better for slow travel, clean air, and relaxed stays. Ooty is better for sightseeing and tourist attractions.
- What is the best time to visit Coonoor and Wellington?October to March is ideal for cool weather and clear views. January offers crisp mornings and pleasant daytime temperatures, ideal for trekking and road trips.
- How long does it take to drive from Bengaluru to Coonoor?The drive typically takes 6 to 8 hours depending on traffic, forest entry checks, and detours via Gudalur or Masinagudi.
Is the Nilgiri Mountain Railway toy train worth it?
Yes, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway offers scenic views of forests, tunnels, and valleys, and is considered one of the most picturesque heritage train routes in India.
